KnittingIntermediateFingering (1)2–3 weeks per pair

Toe-Up Afterthought Heel Socks

Knit a plain tube from the toe, with a line of waste yarn where the heel goes. Perfect for self-striping yarn and for using every last bit.

Toe-Up Afterthought Heel Socks, knitted
Illustration of the finished piece. Your colours and stitch texture may differ.
Yarn
Fingering (1) self-striping sock yarn.
Needles
US 1 (2.25 mm) long circular (magic loop) or DPNs
Sizes
Any size from the sock chart. Example: men’s M, sock around 8 in (20 cm), foot 10.5 in (27 cm).
Example gauge
32 sts and 44 rnds = 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette
Yarn needed
About 470 yd (430 m) fingering for men’s M. Weigh the ball before and after sock 1 to see how much leg sock 2 can have.
Stitch multiple
4

Do the math

The examples use the gauge above. Put your own swatch into the gauge calculator first, then use your numbers in each formula.

StepFormulaExampleTool
Stitchessock around × sts per in, rounded to a multiple of 48 × 8 = 64 stsCast-On Calculator
Toe cast-onstitches ÷ 416 sts (8 on each needle)By hand
Toe increase rounds(stitches − toe cast-on) ÷ 448 ÷ 4 = 12By hand
Waste-yarn row atfoot length − 2 in, measured from the toe10.5 − 2 = 8.5 inSize Charts

Materials

  • Fingering (1) yarn (see yarn needed)
  • US 1 (2.25 mm) long circular (magic loop) or DPNs
  • Smooth waste yarn
  • Tapestry needle

Gauge swatch

Swatch in the round.

Instructions

  1. Toe

    Using Judy’s Magic Cast-On, cast on the toe count (example: 8 sts on each needle). Knit 1 rnd.

    Inc rnd: On each needle: k1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1. 4 sts increased.

    Next rnd: Knit.

    Repeat these 2 rnds until you have the full count (example: 64).

  2. Foot

    Knit until the sock measures the waste-yarn figure from the toe tip.

  3. Heel placeholder

    Knit across the sole half with waste yarn. Slip those sts back and knit them again with the working yarn.

  4. Leg

    Knit 5 in (13 cm) or as long as your yarn allows, then work 1.5 in of *k2, p2* rib. Bind off with a stretchy bind-off (Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy works well).

  5. Heel

    Carefully pick out the waste yarn, putting the live sts on two needles: half above, half below (example: 32 + 32, plus 1 extra at each corner, 66 sts).

    Join the yarn. On the first rnd, k2tog the extra corner sts away (back to 64).

    Work exactly like the toe in reverse: dec rnd (k1, ssk, knit to last 3, k2tog, k1 on each needle) every other rnd until half remain, then every rnd until a quarter remain.

Finishing

  • Graft the heel with Kitchener stitch.
  • Close any corner holes with the tail. Weave in ends.

Designer’s notes

  • Afterthought heels are easy to replace when they wear out: snip, unravel and knit a new one.
  • With self-striping yarn, start both socks at the same point in the colour sequence for a matching pair.

Counter set-up

Counter 1: toe increase rounds. Counter 2: heel decrease rounds.

Open the row & stitch counter for several counters, or use the quick one below.

Tools for this pattern

Related guides

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